Field Guides

Routes, not just ruins.

Curated sets — a theme, a region, a handful of places I keep returning to. Read them free; members unlock the map of every exact location, or buy a single guide on its own.

03 22 places
Nature and ruins Iceland

What the Cold Keeps

Iceland's ring road in seven days, anticlockwise, in a camper — waterfalls, a glacier lagoon, a boiling plain and a cave full of blue water, and scattered along the same eighteen hundred kilometres an aeroplane that was driven the length of the country, a wartime wreck at the head of a fjord, a Viking village built for a film nobody ever made, and a herring boat standing on the shore that built her.

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